Where to stay in stunning Lake Como
If you’ve ever dreamed of drinking Spritz by the Italian lakeside, adorned with colourful houses as your backdrop - Como is for you. There’s nothing quite like it.
How Long Should You Stay?
I would stay in Lake Como for at least 3-5 nights, to really slow down and enjoy yourself. You could do it faster than that realistically, but I would argue that it defeats the purpose of that kind of holiday. You’re there to relax and take in the experience, not race around just to tick it off your list.
In saying that, if you wanted to day trip from Milan because that’s all your itinerary allows, you can easily get a train straight to Varenna. You can buy the ‘centre of the lake’ ferry pass, and see Varenna and Bellagio in a day, and even squeeze in Villa Balbianello if you’re super speedy.
Where to Stay
I should preface this with a big disclaimer, that it really depends on mainly two things. First, the time of year you’re going will determine things like how busy and crowded it is and therefore, you might want to pick your spot based around that.
And second, you have to work out what you prefer. Do you mind if there’s crowds? Would you prefer something more off the beaten track? Or would you rather a view, if it means you are positioned further away? Once you figure that out, then you can work out where would suit you best.
So back to the question. Lake Como is quite big in the scheme of things, and there are so many beautiful towns you can base yourself out of when visiting. But logistically, some are easier to get around using public transport than others. So, with that in mind, I would say either Bellagio or Varenna are the two top places I would base myself out of (for a first visit to the lake). And this is why.
Why base yourself in Bellagio
1. Its reputation precedes itself
Almost everyone has heard of Bellagio and for a good reason. If you go to Lake Como, it’s more than likely you’re going to visit Bellagio. It’s the quintessential town to go to and it’s right in the middle of the lake.
2. Easy to get to by ferry
It’s geographically one of the easiest towns to get to from the different lakeside spots because it is so popular, and most of the ferry stops include Bellagio.
3. Geographical location
It’s at the tip of the peninsula, in the centre of the lake, so nice and close to other places, if you want to use it as a base to explore. You can buy a ‘centre of the lake pass’ on the ferries that gets you a few different central places, if you’re keen on spending the day moving around.
4. You can get to tourist spots early (before the crowds)
One of the biggest tricks to travelling in Europe without battling the overwhelming crowds is to visit the top sites in the morning. So, if you can position yourself in Bellagio (the one town almost everyone visits), then you need to get up early, if you want to beat the crowds. THAT photo at the top of Bellagio is going to be swarming with people by midday. If your hotel is just a couple of streets away, you can go as early as you like.
Why NOT to base yourself in Bellagio
1. There are no trains going to Bellagio - only buses and ferries
This is not a deal breaker in any way, but it’s just good to know because it can mean swapping modes of transport (which is slightly more annoying) if you’re already getting a train from other parts of the country. Comparatively, there’s a train that goes direct from Milan to Varenna, which makes it a bit easier when travelling with suitcases.
2. It can be more expensive
Yes, typically Bellagio is more expensive, so that might determine if you can afford to stay here. However, this is probably not the type of holiday you're going to try to save money on. But it's interesting to note - I remember when I was looking, and Airbnb prices were fairly comparative between Varenna (with a view) and Bellagio (without). So it depends where your priorities lie.
Why base yourself in Varenna
1. Easily Accessible
It’s on the train line and is about an hour’s ride from Milan. It makes it easily accessible from other parts of Italy. Varenna is also relatively of the centre of the lake, so a lot more ferries run to and from the town.
2. It’s considered the ‘cheaper’ alternative to Bellagio
This is true, but as I mentioned earlier, at least look at the price differences. They might not be as ‘out of range’ if you book early and compromise things like a view.
3. Restaurant Options are plentiful
Some of our best meals in Lake Como were in Varenna. There were heaps of options, and many of them boasted a great view of the old town or lake. I'll link the restaurants we loved in my "Itinerary Options for Lake Como" post.
4. Great vibe
Even at the time of year we went, which was shoulder season, there were enough people that gave it a great atmosphere, but not too many people, that we were battling crowds. Bellagio is typically busier than Varenna. The latter is known to be the quieter of the two towns.
5. You Can See Bellagio from Varenna
This isn’t here nor there, but it’s a pretty nice view looking at Bellagio from across the water.
Why NOT to base yourself in Varenna
1. It’s not Bellagio
This goes without saying, but come on, it’s Bellagio.
Other Options for Accommodation
Menaggio - This is a beautiful town in the main touristy area, but it’s pretty small and arguably an easy day trip if you want to pop in. It also requires a train and bus from Milan, so not one easy transition.
Como - This is a beautiful town with a few different things to do here (I’ll touch on these in my "Itinerary Options for Lake Como" post). It’s easy to reach direct from Milan, as it has its own train station. The main downside to basing yourself here, is that it’s so far away from the main tourist spots (Bellagio, Lenno, Varenna). As a consequence, it’s not only more costly to get to those places, it also costs you time sitting on a ferry (it’s around an hour to get from Como to Bellagio, and that’s on the fast ferry).
Bellano - This is where we stayed. We had a beautiful Airbnb, which was the tipping point that swayed us to book it. However, it wasn’t as touristy as the other towns. This at first appealed to me, because I liked the idea of it being more authentic, but it actually worked against us. It was so quiet in October, there were very few restaurant options and it just didn’t have the same vibe. Plus, after dinner, when we were tired from exploring all day, we still had to get a train and then walk 100 steps up to our apartment. (It seems like a pretty minor complaint in the scheme of things - and it is - but it’s something we would have done differently, so that might be helpful if you’re weighing up your accommodation options).
How to Get To Lake Como
We chose to use public transport around Lake Como because it is so easily accessible from a major city like Milan. It just meant that if we were going to go exploring the lake for the day, it didn’t mean our rental car was parked up, costing us money and not being used.
By far, the easiest way to get around (especially the centre) of the lake, is by ferry. It allows you to cross from one side to another, within relatively short periods - for example, it only takes around 15 minutes to go between Varenna and Bellagio.
In saying that, if you want to have a car, it’s totally doable and it does give you a bit more flexibility in some cases, but it depends on the kind of holiday you’re planning. There are ferries that can transport cars across the lake, as driving the circumference is a lot more time consuming. But maybe that’s exactly what you want - just to drive and see what you find. And if that’s the case - it sounds incredible. Most towns have parking (even if it’s just outside the old town, like in Varenna). However, please note, towns like Bellagio are a lot less car-friendly. Just do your research before pulling into a ZTL (no drive zone).